A white cotton T-shirt can look like one of the simplest objects in fashion. The system behind it is anything but simple.
Cotton begins as plant fibre, but clothing requires agriculture, cleaning, spinning, weaving or knitting, dyeing, cutting, sewing and distribution. Every stage has changed dramatically across time.
The fibre also became entangled with imperial expansion, plantation slavery, industrial machinery and global trade. The softness of the finished garment can therefore conceal a very hard history.
That does not mean every cotton object carries one identical moral or geographic story. Cotton has been grown, processed and worn through many different labour systems and cultures.
That complexity is exactly why the material works as a portal. Start with fibre and the route opens into agriculture. Follow the yarn and machinery appears. Follow the finished shirt and labour, logistics and retail enter the frame.
Materials are never only materials.
They are systems of land, technology, work and movement compressed into something we can hold in one hand.
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